TNR Step-by-Step
Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) is the most effective and humane method to treat feral cats and manage their groups. Cats are trapped and taken to a veterinarian to be sterilized and given any necessary medical attention. At this point friendly cats are moved to an adoption program, while those not suitable for indoor life are returned to the place of trapping. All cats are scanned for a microchip and returned to their guardian. The below information is an overview of the TNR process; click here to download our TNR step-by-step brochure.
1) ASSESS THE SITUATION Identify all individuals who feed community cats and all locations of feeding sites. Create a spreadsheet tracking pertinent information about the cats (i.e., number of cats, sex of each cat).
Evaluate the location as to whether it is an appropriate environment to keep the cats. The area where the cats are currently living is the best place to keep them. If relocation is necessary, refer to our guide for relocating cats.
Establish a routine feeding schedule. Feeding is best done early in the morning or later in the evening. Feed the cats at the same time and place each day for at least one week prior to trapping. Trapping should coincide with a regularly scheduled feeding.
Notify your neighbors before trapping begins to prevent them from thinking that you will harm the cats and also to allow them to keep their cats indoors. Make arrangements for kittens and cats who may be socialized after veterinary treatment, so they can be placed into an adoption program. Foster homes should be arranged prior to trapping.
For TNR to be sufficiently effective at preventing population growth, a minimum of anywhere from 75%-94% of cats need to be sterilized depending on the size of the colony. If you have more than a few cats to trap, focus on trapping as many cats as possible in one colony at a time (if you are working in an area with multiple colonies), within as short a time period as possible. This is know as "targeted," or occasionally “mass” trapping.
1) ASSESS THE SITUATION Identify all individuals who feed community cats and all locations of feeding sites. Create a spreadsheet tracking pertinent information about the cats (i.e., number of cats, sex of each cat).
Evaluate the location as to whether it is an appropriate environment to keep the cats. The area where the cats are currently living is the best place to keep them. If relocation is necessary, refer to our guide for relocating cats.
Establish a routine feeding schedule. Feeding is best done early in the morning or later in the evening. Feed the cats at the same time and place each day for at least one week prior to trapping. Trapping should coincide with a regularly scheduled feeding.
Notify your neighbors before trapping begins to prevent them from thinking that you will harm the cats and also to allow them to keep their cats indoors. Make arrangements for kittens and cats who may be socialized after veterinary treatment, so they can be placed into an adoption program. Foster homes should be arranged prior to trapping.
For TNR to be sufficiently effective at preventing population growth, a minimum of anywhere from 75%-94% of cats need to be sterilized depending on the size of the colony. If you have more than a few cats to trap, focus on trapping as many cats as possible in one colony at a time (if you are working in an area with multiple colonies), within as short a time period as possible. This is know as "targeted," or occasionally “mass” trapping.
Targeted trapping tips
Getting Involved
If you are already part of a TNR effort, you may be receiving calls from the public regarding community cats. Start a spreadsheet and make a record of information from callers, including things such as:
Another good idea is to petition for calls by placing an ad in the local newspaper, posting on Facebook, etc., with a number that concerned citizens can call about community cats. Use a number other than your home phone number and ensure that callers’ information will be kept private. Yard signs and door hangars are also useful for specific neighborhoods. Additionally, many animal shelters are aware of where large cat groups are located. You can try contacting them as well for further information.
Involvement in the community is also useful for the next stages, as strategies for mass-trapping large colonies hinge on careful control of feeding times and locations. If other members of your community put out food for the local cats, you will need to make sure you have their cooperation to ensure targeted trapping success.
Pinpointing Groups of Cats
Using the information you’ve gathered from the public and/or shelters, you can determine where large groups of cats are located. Large colonies tend to have multiple areas where they seek food and shelter; while feral cats may have ranges up to or exceeding two miles, it is much more common for them to remain within a territory of around a quarter of a mile. Using programs such as Google Maps, you can plot reported sightings and see areas and neighborhoods where residents are making reports about cats. These locations are the areas where you will want to focus your trapping efforts.
In addition to the location and size of the colony, you will also want to make note of:
The Community Cats Podcast recommends that you allow at least 3 weeks of reconnaissance before beginning to trap.
Establish a Targeted Trapping Plan
After determining the target areas, decide which one you will begin with. Do some research on the group, such as where the cats live and who is feeding them. Next, speak with the neighbors and inform them of your plan. This is an important part of the process, as this is also a time where you can listen to any concerns the neighbors may have, as well as inform them about the project. A sense of involvement among the community will mean that neighbors will more likely be cooperative and supportive of the plan. Also discuss with the neighbors about their own cats, as it is important that their cats are spayed/neutered as well. Let them know when you will be trapping, so that all pet cats can be kept indoors. If necessary, arrange for unfixed pet cats to be spayed/neutered. Then, establish a plan for the trapping, transporting, vet visits, and returning of the cats.
For very large (20+ cats) colonies, it is recommended to encourage cats to congregate all at once by establishing a single consistent feeding time each day. This is a major reason that community involvement is important; the cats will not starve if your neighbors don’t leave food out for them, no matter how much they insist that they will surely perish! Making sure that there is one source of food to which the entire colony must gather is vital to the success of large-scale targeted trapping efforts.
Record your Progress
Be sure to keep records for every cat you trap, neuter, vaccinate, and return or adopt, as well as all the pet cats you spayed or neutered. You can ask the clinic(s) to fill it out. The more detailed records you maintain, the more successful you will be in petitioning for future contributions and recruitments, as well as demonstrating that the program is valuable to the community.
Over time, the number of cats in the groups you target will stabilize. After the trapping, encourage caregivers to continue to monitor the groups as well as trap and neuter any new cats who join the group. Obtaining positive statements from caregivers and neighbors can also serve as good evidence that the program is successful and beneficial to the community.
Targeted trapping will help keep trapping not only organized but also allow for more cats to be helped in the most effective way possible. Both community cats and neighbors alike will benefit from these efforts.
If you are already part of a TNR effort, you may be receiving calls from the public regarding community cats. Start a spreadsheet and make a record of information from callers, including things such as:
- Full name
- Address
- Phone number
- Location of cats
- Number of cats
- Group history (how did the group start, how long ago, etc.)
- If the cats are being fed/by whom
- Owner of the property where the cats are located
- Purpose of the call (concern, desire to help, etc.)
Another good idea is to petition for calls by placing an ad in the local newspaper, posting on Facebook, etc., with a number that concerned citizens can call about community cats. Use a number other than your home phone number and ensure that callers’ information will be kept private. Yard signs and door hangars are also useful for specific neighborhoods. Additionally, many animal shelters are aware of where large cat groups are located. You can try contacting them as well for further information.
Involvement in the community is also useful for the next stages, as strategies for mass-trapping large colonies hinge on careful control of feeding times and locations. If other members of your community put out food for the local cats, you will need to make sure you have their cooperation to ensure targeted trapping success.
Pinpointing Groups of Cats
Using the information you’ve gathered from the public and/or shelters, you can determine where large groups of cats are located. Large colonies tend to have multiple areas where they seek food and shelter; while feral cats may have ranges up to or exceeding two miles, it is much more common for them to remain within a territory of around a quarter of a mile. Using programs such as Google Maps, you can plot reported sightings and see areas and neighborhoods where residents are making reports about cats. These locations are the areas where you will want to focus your trapping efforts.
In addition to the location and size of the colony, you will also want to make note of:
- How many cats need to be spayed or neutered, and if any have been ear-tipped to indicate previous sterilization;
- Whether there are any pregnant or nursing mothers, and if/how many kittens are present; if there are kittens, get them out and into foster situations before you start trapping.
- Your nearest clinic(s) and their availability;
- How much space and equipment you will need to capture, transport, and safely hold an entire colony of cats.
- Do you have a place to hold the cats for 24 to 48 hours while they recover after sterilization?
The Community Cats Podcast recommends that you allow at least 3 weeks of reconnaissance before beginning to trap.
Establish a Targeted Trapping Plan
After determining the target areas, decide which one you will begin with. Do some research on the group, such as where the cats live and who is feeding them. Next, speak with the neighbors and inform them of your plan. This is an important part of the process, as this is also a time where you can listen to any concerns the neighbors may have, as well as inform them about the project. A sense of involvement among the community will mean that neighbors will more likely be cooperative and supportive of the plan. Also discuss with the neighbors about their own cats, as it is important that their cats are spayed/neutered as well. Let them know when you will be trapping, so that all pet cats can be kept indoors. If necessary, arrange for unfixed pet cats to be spayed/neutered. Then, establish a plan for the trapping, transporting, vet visits, and returning of the cats.
For very large (20+ cats) colonies, it is recommended to encourage cats to congregate all at once by establishing a single consistent feeding time each day. This is a major reason that community involvement is important; the cats will not starve if your neighbors don’t leave food out for them, no matter how much they insist that they will surely perish! Making sure that there is one source of food to which the entire colony must gather is vital to the success of large-scale targeted trapping efforts.
Record your Progress
Be sure to keep records for every cat you trap, neuter, vaccinate, and return or adopt, as well as all the pet cats you spayed or neutered. You can ask the clinic(s) to fill it out. The more detailed records you maintain, the more successful you will be in petitioning for future contributions and recruitments, as well as demonstrating that the program is valuable to the community.
Over time, the number of cats in the groups you target will stabilize. After the trapping, encourage caregivers to continue to monitor the groups as well as trap and neuter any new cats who join the group. Obtaining positive statements from caregivers and neighbors can also serve as good evidence that the program is successful and beneficial to the community.
Targeted trapping will help keep trapping not only organized but also allow for more cats to be helped in the most effective way possible. Both community cats and neighbors alike will benefit from these efforts.
2) MAKE AN APPOINTMENT Before you begin trapping, contact your local shelter, rescue group, or vet clinic to make an appointment. You must work in conjunction with a clinic; do not show up or call them saying you have a cat in trap without first making proper arrangements. Make sure to ask upfront what cost(s) will be incurred and what form of payments are accepted. Find a clinic near you here.
3) RENT TRAPS/PROPER EQUIPMENT If you do not own a trap, you will need to make arrangements to rent or borrow one from the clinic providing sterilization or from another local group. If you are trapping a large group, you may be able to rent several traps at a time, although you might want to purchase a few traps for your own use.
Other items you will need:
4) PREPARE THE TRAP Place the trap on a flat surface. Unlatch the rear door and take it off so you can get your hands inside the trap. Fold several pieces of newspaper lengthwise and place them inside the bottom of the trap.
Place about one tablespoon of bait food in the rear center of the trap. Next, drizzle some liquid from the bait the entire length of the newspaper inside the trap. Place about 1/4 teaspoon of bait in the middle of the trap and 1/4 teaspoon inside the front of the trap. This strategy is meant to entice the cat into the trap, making her way to the larger amount of food at the rear of the trap. It is important not to put too much bait in the front or middle of the trap, because this may satisfy the cat and she will leave without setting off the trap.
5) SET THE TRAP Set up the trap at the trapping site, most likely in the feeding area. Place the trap on the ground and make certain it is stable and will not rock or tip. Cover the entire trap with a sheet or towel, leaving the opening uncovered and ensuring the cover won’t interfere with the door shutting. If using multiple traps, stagger them, so they are facing in different directions. Move quietly and slowly and try to remain relaxed so your behavior won’t frighten cats away.
Leave the area quietly. The cats are unlikely to enter the traps if you are standing nearby. Traps should never be left unattended under any circumstances. It is good to check the traps frequently and quietly, from a distance. Never leave a cat in a trap unattended.
Trapping feral cats may take some time. Be patient. Once a cat appears, it may take a few minutes for her to go into the trap. Make sure the trap has sprung, and the cat is securely trapped, before you approach.
3) RENT TRAPS/PROPER EQUIPMENT If you do not own a trap, you will need to make arrangements to rent or borrow one from the clinic providing sterilization or from another local group. If you are trapping a large group, you may be able to rent several traps at a time, although you might want to purchase a few traps for your own use.
Other items you will need:
- one bed sheet or large towel to cover each trap
- one large blanket, bed sheet, or plastic cover to protect your vehicle seats
- newspaper to line the bottom of each trap
- an easy-open can of tuna in oil, sardines in oil, mackerel, or other enticing bait
- a spoon (or use the lid from the can to scoop out bait)
- a flashlight or headlamp for early morning or late night trapping
- tracking sheets to identify cats and record information
- a pen
- extra cat food and water for any cats remaining in thegroup and not being trapped
- a pair of thick gloves
- a roll of paper towels and hand sanitizer
- a few twist ties (bread ties) to secure trap doors
4) PREPARE THE TRAP Place the trap on a flat surface. Unlatch the rear door and take it off so you can get your hands inside the trap. Fold several pieces of newspaper lengthwise and place them inside the bottom of the trap.
Place about one tablespoon of bait food in the rear center of the trap. Next, drizzle some liquid from the bait the entire length of the newspaper inside the trap. Place about 1/4 teaspoon of bait in the middle of the trap and 1/4 teaspoon inside the front of the trap. This strategy is meant to entice the cat into the trap, making her way to the larger amount of food at the rear of the trap. It is important not to put too much bait in the front or middle of the trap, because this may satisfy the cat and she will leave without setting off the trap.
5) SET THE TRAP Set up the trap at the trapping site, most likely in the feeding area. Place the trap on the ground and make certain it is stable and will not rock or tip. Cover the entire trap with a sheet or towel, leaving the opening uncovered and ensuring the cover won’t interfere with the door shutting. If using multiple traps, stagger them, so they are facing in different directions. Move quietly and slowly and try to remain relaxed so your behavior won’t frighten cats away.
Leave the area quietly. The cats are unlikely to enter the traps if you are standing nearby. Traps should never be left unattended under any circumstances. It is good to check the traps frequently and quietly, from a distance. Never leave a cat in a trap unattended.
Trapping feral cats may take some time. Be patient. Once a cat appears, it may take a few minutes for her to go into the trap. Make sure the trap has sprung, and the cat is securely trapped, before you approach.
TRAPPING TIPS AND TRICKS
Catching Mama Cat
Once you’ve successfully trapped a litter of kittens, next you need to trap the mama. One effective technique is to put the kittens in a carrier and position the front door against the rear door of the trip. Place a sheet over the carrier and the trap, so that only the trap’s front door is uncovered. This way, mama will only be able to see her babies through the trap, and in order to reach them, she has no choice but to go in. Remember, however, when using this method, never leave the kittens unsupervised and stop after an hour so they don’t get fatigued.
Helpful Headgear
When trapping at night, performing even basic tasks can become complicated. Instead of using a flashlight, try switching to a headlamp. Using a headlamp means both your hands are free to do all the other important things that need to be done for the trapping.
Grease Up
Are your traps’ moving parts performing as well as they should? The last thing you want to happen is failing to catch a cat because something went wrong with your trap. One solution to this problem is to use a non-stick vegetable oil spray to grease up your traps. It’s safe for cats and can be bought at any supermarket. Apply a small amount to the trigger, trip plate hinges, and any other parts that are sticking. Using a butter-flavored spray will help lure the cats inside. After you’re done trapping, make sure to thoroughly clean the traps.
Garden Hose Helpers
Lifting and carrying cats around after a long day or night can start to wear and tear on your hands. Those metal handles are unforgiving and can leave you with achy fingers and palms, as well as sometimes blisters. To combat this, take a regular garden house and cut it into handle-sized pieces. Cut each piece open length-wise, place it over the trap handles, and wrap in place with duct tape.
Cheap Sheets
Many trappers use full-size sheets as trap covers. However, fitted crib sheets are an excellent alternative. Because crib sheets are smaller, they fit snuggly around a trap and don’t slip. Crib sheets can be found at most thrift stores and are very inexpensive.
Once you’ve successfully trapped a litter of kittens, next you need to trap the mama. One effective technique is to put the kittens in a carrier and position the front door against the rear door of the trip. Place a sheet over the carrier and the trap, so that only the trap’s front door is uncovered. This way, mama will only be able to see her babies through the trap, and in order to reach them, she has no choice but to go in. Remember, however, when using this method, never leave the kittens unsupervised and stop after an hour so they don’t get fatigued.
Helpful Headgear
When trapping at night, performing even basic tasks can become complicated. Instead of using a flashlight, try switching to a headlamp. Using a headlamp means both your hands are free to do all the other important things that need to be done for the trapping.
Grease Up
Are your traps’ moving parts performing as well as they should? The last thing you want to happen is failing to catch a cat because something went wrong with your trap. One solution to this problem is to use a non-stick vegetable oil spray to grease up your traps. It’s safe for cats and can be bought at any supermarket. Apply a small amount to the trigger, trip plate hinges, and any other parts that are sticking. Using a butter-flavored spray will help lure the cats inside. After you’re done trapping, make sure to thoroughly clean the traps.
Garden Hose Helpers
Lifting and carrying cats around after a long day or night can start to wear and tear on your hands. Those metal handles are unforgiving and can leave you with achy fingers and palms, as well as sometimes blisters. To combat this, take a regular garden house and cut it into handle-sized pieces. Cut each piece open length-wise, place it over the trap handles, and wrap in place with duct tape.
Cheap Sheets
Many trappers use full-size sheets as trap covers. However, fitted crib sheets are an excellent alternative. Because crib sheets are smaller, they fit snuggly around a trap and don’t slip. Crib sheets can be found at most thrift stores and are very inexpensive.
Some cats are more challenging to trap than others. Don't give up! Try our tricks for hard-to-trap cats!
Tricks for hard-to-trap cats
Stubborn kittens
Inevitably you will come across a kitten you’re trying to trap that just does not want to be caught. She’s wedged herself into a hard to reach hiding place and refuses to leave, regardless of how patiently you wait or what kind of delicious bait you use. When all other options fail, try turning to YouTube. Find a video of kittens meowing and put your phone under a drop trap or near the back of a box trap. Chances are, your stubborn kitten will come out to investigate these other ‘kittens’ and possible to trap.
Lightweight kitten tips
For kittens who are too lightweight to set off the trip plate, try resting the tip of the trigger against the trap’s crossbar instead of the elbow of the trigger. Doing this means it will require less weight to lower the trip plate and therefore shut the trap door. When using this method, it is wise to use the bottle and string technique in order to reduce the chances of another kitten getting stuck or potentially injured by the front door.
Widen the Trip Plates
Traps with narrow trip plates, such as ones designed for animals other than cats, can make it difficult to trap your cats. More clever cats will simply step over or around the trip plate in order to reach the bait at the end of the trap. One solution to this problem is to extend the trip plate with a piece of cardboard. Cut a piece slightly less than the width of the trap, about seven inches long. Then, duct tape it to the middle of the trip plate. This way, it will be much more difficult for the cat to avoid stepping on either the cardboard or the metal.
Drop traps
It is common for cats to be fearful of entering a regular box trap. This is why food is withheld the day prior, so that the cats are enticed to enter the trap with the promise of food. However, some cats still may not go in, despite their hunger. In these cases, a drop trap is a good alternative. While cats may be afraid to go into a box trap, they are not afraid to go under a drop trap.
Camouflage the traps
Oftentimes, a feral cat will be more likely to enter a box trap when the trap looks as if it is part of the natural surroundings. In grassy or wooded areas, you can camouflage the trap by placing burlap on the trap’s floor and over the top and sides. Keep the front and rear doors clear so the cat can easily enter as well as have a clear view out. On the burlap, place sticks, leaves, and other objects found nearby. To make the trap appear as if it’s part of the environment, place it near a bush or under a tree. If you are in an urban setting, place the trap inside a long cardboard box, with the front and rear doors unobstructed. On the box, sprinkle materials found nearby. Alternatively, you can lean a board against a wall or a fence with the trap placed underneath. Ultimately, the better the trap blends in with its surroundings, the more likely it will be that the cat will enter it.
Train the cat to enter the trap ("trap train")
Assuming a trap can be safely left outdoors for a prolonged period of time, it is possible to train the cat to enter it. This should only be done in a secure area, such as a backyard or private courtyard. It is also possible to train a whole colony with this technique, using one trap for each cat. Typically, the process takes approximately one to two weeks. For best results, follow these steps:
Transparent rear door
For trap-shy cats, a good solution is to use a trap with a see-through rear door. Fearful cats are more likely to enter a trap if they believe there is a way out at the other end, and a transparent rear door creates this illusion. Once the cat has been caught, use a trap divider to position her towards the front of the trap, then replace the see-through door with a normal one.
Bottle and string
Cats can be very clever. Some know how to avoid the trip plate yet still reach the bait. One way to combat this is to use a bottle and string to manually close the front door. You can do this by opening the front door and propping a corner on a full one-liter plastic bottle. Then attach one end of a long piece of string around the base of the bottle and move away from the trap while holding the other end of the string. Once the cat is all the way in the trap, pull the string so that the bottle will move and thus shuts the front door. The bottle and string method can also be used to single out a particular cat, such as one who pregnant or injured. To do this, put a large amount of bait in the rear of the trip. This way, numerous cats can go in and have a nibble then leave while you wait for the intended cat to do the same.
The bottle and string method can also be useful for trapping young kittens, as large and powerful adult traps can be dangerous if they malfunction. Additionally, kittens might not be heavy enough to trigger the trap plate. Therefore, it is important to use a humane trap made specifically for kittens. Attach a string to the bottle so you can spring the trap manually once the kitten is safely inside. Once the kitten is fully inside the trap, pull the string quickly to remove the water bottle. Also, set out at least one trap per kitten to discourage them from following each other into the same trap. Multiple kittens may still enter the same trap, so be extra careful that none of them get caught in the trap door. If two kittens are caught in the same trap, either use an isolator to transfer one into another trap, or bring an extra trap to the clinic so they can be separated after surgery.
Hide the trip plate
Another way to catch a cat who avoids the trip plate is to hide the plate with newspaper. Place the newspaper over the plate, the area in front of it, and a little bit behind it. If it is windy, secure the newspaper with clothespins so that it doesn’t flap around and scare the cat. Another technique is to slide a stick through the trap a few inches off the ground right in front of the plate. Having to step over the stick will force the cat’s paw to land on the hidden trip plate.
Lure into a closed place
If you can lure a cat into a basement, shed, or garage, trapping her will be much easier. Once the cat is inside, you can set up a baited trap and wait to see if she enters, or you could attempt to run her into the trap. If you opt to wait patiently, place a baited trap in the space. Refill the bait at least two times a day and leave water outside the trap at all times. Place a litter box as well as a pile of newspaper in case she is unfamiliar with litter. Don’t deprive the cat of food for more than two or three days, and don’t withhold food from kittens or cats with special needs for more than a few hours.
A quicker way to trap the cat is to place a large board against a wall and hide a trap behind it. With a sheet, cover the board so that the open space above and to the side of the trap is blocked, but don’t cover the trap door. This should be done on both the back and front ends. Remove or block off any potential hiding places before attempting to lure the cat into the space. The theory is that once the cat realizes she is stuck, she will search for a place to hide. Because there is no where else to go, she will run behind the board and into the trap. If the cat somehow does find a place to hide, use a broom or similar long object to try and gently coax her out. If for whatever reason she refuses to go behind the board or into the trap, set a baited trap along with some water and litter/newspaper and attempt to trap her again later once she has calmed down.
Inevitably you will come across a kitten you’re trying to trap that just does not want to be caught. She’s wedged herself into a hard to reach hiding place and refuses to leave, regardless of how patiently you wait or what kind of delicious bait you use. When all other options fail, try turning to YouTube. Find a video of kittens meowing and put your phone under a drop trap or near the back of a box trap. Chances are, your stubborn kitten will come out to investigate these other ‘kittens’ and possible to trap.
Lightweight kitten tips
For kittens who are too lightweight to set off the trip plate, try resting the tip of the trigger against the trap’s crossbar instead of the elbow of the trigger. Doing this means it will require less weight to lower the trip plate and therefore shut the trap door. When using this method, it is wise to use the bottle and string technique in order to reduce the chances of another kitten getting stuck or potentially injured by the front door.
Widen the Trip Plates
Traps with narrow trip plates, such as ones designed for animals other than cats, can make it difficult to trap your cats. More clever cats will simply step over or around the trip plate in order to reach the bait at the end of the trap. One solution to this problem is to extend the trip plate with a piece of cardboard. Cut a piece slightly less than the width of the trap, about seven inches long. Then, duct tape it to the middle of the trip plate. This way, it will be much more difficult for the cat to avoid stepping on either the cardboard or the metal.
Drop traps
It is common for cats to be fearful of entering a regular box trap. This is why food is withheld the day prior, so that the cats are enticed to enter the trap with the promise of food. However, some cats still may not go in, despite their hunger. In these cases, a drop trap is a good alternative. While cats may be afraid to go into a box trap, they are not afraid to go under a drop trap.
Camouflage the traps
Oftentimes, a feral cat will be more likely to enter a box trap when the trap looks as if it is part of the natural surroundings. In grassy or wooded areas, you can camouflage the trap by placing burlap on the trap’s floor and over the top and sides. Keep the front and rear doors clear so the cat can easily enter as well as have a clear view out. On the burlap, place sticks, leaves, and other objects found nearby. To make the trap appear as if it’s part of the environment, place it near a bush or under a tree. If you are in an urban setting, place the trap inside a long cardboard box, with the front and rear doors unobstructed. On the box, sprinkle materials found nearby. Alternatively, you can lean a board against a wall or a fence with the trap placed underneath. Ultimately, the better the trap blends in with its surroundings, the more likely it will be that the cat will enter it.
Train the cat to enter the trap ("trap train")
Assuming a trap can be safely left outdoors for a prolonged period of time, it is possible to train the cat to enter it. This should only be done in a secure area, such as a backyard or private courtyard. It is also possible to train a whole colony with this technique, using one trap for each cat. Typically, the process takes approximately one to two weeks. For best results, follow these steps:
- Using a stick, twist tie, or similar item, secure the front door of the trap in a raised position.
- Place the trap near the cat’s normal feeding spot. Leave it there for the duration of the training.
- On day one, put the cat’s regular meal in a small plate or bowl about a foot or two away from the trap’s front door. For more skittish cats, start farther away from the trap.
- Put the plate in the same spot until the cat begins eating the food. For the next meal, reposition the plate so it is about six inches closer to the trap’s front door. After the cat is comfortable eating from the new spot, again move the food closer to the front door.
- Continue this process until the plate is right in front of the trap. Once the cat is comfortable eating there, place the plate a few inches inside the trap. Wait for the cat to eat, then continue moving the plate farther inside the trap, until it is all the way in the back.
- When ready to trap, bait the trap at the time the cat is used to eating and set the trigger.
Transparent rear door
For trap-shy cats, a good solution is to use a trap with a see-through rear door. Fearful cats are more likely to enter a trap if they believe there is a way out at the other end, and a transparent rear door creates this illusion. Once the cat has been caught, use a trap divider to position her towards the front of the trap, then replace the see-through door with a normal one.
Bottle and string
Cats can be very clever. Some know how to avoid the trip plate yet still reach the bait. One way to combat this is to use a bottle and string to manually close the front door. You can do this by opening the front door and propping a corner on a full one-liter plastic bottle. Then attach one end of a long piece of string around the base of the bottle and move away from the trap while holding the other end of the string. Once the cat is all the way in the trap, pull the string so that the bottle will move and thus shuts the front door. The bottle and string method can also be used to single out a particular cat, such as one who pregnant or injured. To do this, put a large amount of bait in the rear of the trip. This way, numerous cats can go in and have a nibble then leave while you wait for the intended cat to do the same.
The bottle and string method can also be useful for trapping young kittens, as large and powerful adult traps can be dangerous if they malfunction. Additionally, kittens might not be heavy enough to trigger the trap plate. Therefore, it is important to use a humane trap made specifically for kittens. Attach a string to the bottle so you can spring the trap manually once the kitten is safely inside. Once the kitten is fully inside the trap, pull the string quickly to remove the water bottle. Also, set out at least one trap per kitten to discourage them from following each other into the same trap. Multiple kittens may still enter the same trap, so be extra careful that none of them get caught in the trap door. If two kittens are caught in the same trap, either use an isolator to transfer one into another trap, or bring an extra trap to the clinic so they can be separated after surgery.
Hide the trip plate
Another way to catch a cat who avoids the trip plate is to hide the plate with newspaper. Place the newspaper over the plate, the area in front of it, and a little bit behind it. If it is windy, secure the newspaper with clothespins so that it doesn’t flap around and scare the cat. Another technique is to slide a stick through the trap a few inches off the ground right in front of the plate. Having to step over the stick will force the cat’s paw to land on the hidden trip plate.
Lure into a closed place
If you can lure a cat into a basement, shed, or garage, trapping her will be much easier. Once the cat is inside, you can set up a baited trap and wait to see if she enters, or you could attempt to run her into the trap. If you opt to wait patiently, place a baited trap in the space. Refill the bait at least two times a day and leave water outside the trap at all times. Place a litter box as well as a pile of newspaper in case she is unfamiliar with litter. Don’t deprive the cat of food for more than two or three days, and don’t withhold food from kittens or cats with special needs for more than a few hours.
A quicker way to trap the cat is to place a large board against a wall and hide a trap behind it. With a sheet, cover the board so that the open space above and to the side of the trap is blocked, but don’t cover the trap door. This should be done on both the back and front ends. Remove or block off any potential hiding places before attempting to lure the cat into the space. The theory is that once the cat realizes she is stuck, she will search for a place to hide. Because there is no where else to go, she will run behind the board and into the trap. If the cat somehow does find a place to hide, use a broom or similar long object to try and gently coax her out. If for whatever reason she refuses to go behind the board or into the trap, set a baited trap along with some water and litter/newspaper and attempt to trap her again later once she has calmed down.
Do NOT attempt to transfer a trapped cat to another cage or carrier. Before moving the trapped cat, ensure the trap is covered with a sheet or large towel. It is normal for the cat to thrash around inside the trap; the cat will calm down eventually. Use twist ties to ensure the rear door is secure.
6) PLACE CAT IN HOLDING AREA Try to trap the night before or in the morning on the day of your appointment. If you need a place to keep the trapped cat until you drop her off for surgery, make sure the cat is kept in a place that is dry and warm. This can be a basement, garage, shed, mud room, or bathroom. Do NOT leave a trapped cat in extreme cold or heat nor in direct sunlight.
7) TRANSPORTING CAT TO CLINIC Before transporting a trapped cat to the clinic, it is advised to cover your vehicle seats with a sheet, large towel, or plastic trash bag to prevent damage to your upholstery. If your vehicle has a hatchback, you can place the trapped cat in the rear as long as she will receive proper ventilation; do NOT transport a trapped cat in the trunk. Ensure the trap is securely situated in the car, so it will not tip over or fall off a seat while you are driving. Keep the trap covered with a sheet or towel.
8) AT THE CLINIC All cats must remain in a trap, covered with a sheet or towel. When dropping the cat off at the clinic, remind your vet the cat is there to be TNR'd ─ that you will be releasing the cat in 12 to 24 hours ─ so dissolvable sutures and surgical glue are used. The cat should also be vaccinated and ear-tipped. Additionally, make sure your vet applies a topical internal parasite (worm) treatment and a topical flea/tick treatment. Make your vet aware of any wounds or injuries so those can be treated.
9) POSTOPERATIVE CARE After surgery, allow the cat to recover overnight in the covered trap. Female cats usually need to be held for 24–48 hours after surgery. Male cats can be returned to the trapping site 12–24 hours following surgery, as long as they are fully awake and do not require further medical attention. Make sure all cats are fully conscious and alert before releasing.
The same evening after surgery you may give the cat a few teaspoons of food and water and replace soiled newspaper, if necessary. Repeat the next morning and the following evening, until you release the cat. Do not be surprised if the cat refuses to eat, that often happens because of the stress of the situation. Keep the recovery area quiet; keep the cat covered; and interact with her as little as possible.
10) RETURN Release the cat in the same place you trapped her. Pull the rear door up and off, pull off the cover, and then walk away. Do not be concerned if the cat hesitates a few moments before leaving. She is simply reorienting herself to her surroundings. It is not uncommon for the cat to stay away for a few days after release; she will return eventually. Keep leaving food and water out; she may eat when you are not around. Never release the cat into a new area. Relocating cats without the proper steps can endanger the cat’s life.
11) MAINTAIN After the cat has been returned to her outdoor home, continue to provide regular food and water for her. It is also recommended that you provide a simple shelter, especially during winter months, to protect her from the elements. If she should become injured or sick, depending on the severity of the condition, she should be retrapped and vetted. Maintain proper health records for her, and it is advised to remain in contact with the vet clinic who spayed her, should you need future assistance.
For even more detailed information, see Chapter 6 of our Guide to Managing Community Cats.
6) PLACE CAT IN HOLDING AREA Try to trap the night before or in the morning on the day of your appointment. If you need a place to keep the trapped cat until you drop her off for surgery, make sure the cat is kept in a place that is dry and warm. This can be a basement, garage, shed, mud room, or bathroom. Do NOT leave a trapped cat in extreme cold or heat nor in direct sunlight.
7) TRANSPORTING CAT TO CLINIC Before transporting a trapped cat to the clinic, it is advised to cover your vehicle seats with a sheet, large towel, or plastic trash bag to prevent damage to your upholstery. If your vehicle has a hatchback, you can place the trapped cat in the rear as long as she will receive proper ventilation; do NOT transport a trapped cat in the trunk. Ensure the trap is securely situated in the car, so it will not tip over or fall off a seat while you are driving. Keep the trap covered with a sheet or towel.
8) AT THE CLINIC All cats must remain in a trap, covered with a sheet or towel. When dropping the cat off at the clinic, remind your vet the cat is there to be TNR'd ─ that you will be releasing the cat in 12 to 24 hours ─ so dissolvable sutures and surgical glue are used. The cat should also be vaccinated and ear-tipped. Additionally, make sure your vet applies a topical internal parasite (worm) treatment and a topical flea/tick treatment. Make your vet aware of any wounds or injuries so those can be treated.
9) POSTOPERATIVE CARE After surgery, allow the cat to recover overnight in the covered trap. Female cats usually need to be held for 24–48 hours after surgery. Male cats can be returned to the trapping site 12–24 hours following surgery, as long as they are fully awake and do not require further medical attention. Make sure all cats are fully conscious and alert before releasing.
The same evening after surgery you may give the cat a few teaspoons of food and water and replace soiled newspaper, if necessary. Repeat the next morning and the following evening, until you release the cat. Do not be surprised if the cat refuses to eat, that often happens because of the stress of the situation. Keep the recovery area quiet; keep the cat covered; and interact with her as little as possible.
10) RETURN Release the cat in the same place you trapped her. Pull the rear door up and off, pull off the cover, and then walk away. Do not be concerned if the cat hesitates a few moments before leaving. She is simply reorienting herself to her surroundings. It is not uncommon for the cat to stay away for a few days after release; she will return eventually. Keep leaving food and water out; she may eat when you are not around. Never release the cat into a new area. Relocating cats without the proper steps can endanger the cat’s life.
11) MAINTAIN After the cat has been returned to her outdoor home, continue to provide regular food and water for her. It is also recommended that you provide a simple shelter, especially during winter months, to protect her from the elements. If she should become injured or sick, depending on the severity of the condition, she should be retrapped and vetted. Maintain proper health records for her, and it is advised to remain in contact with the vet clinic who spayed her, should you need future assistance.
For even more detailed information, see Chapter 6 of our Guide to Managing Community Cats.
References
- Clark, Alisson. “We've Been Trapping and Sterilizing Stray Cats for Decades. Does It Work?” University of Florida News, University of Florida, 7 Aug. 2019, https://news.ufl.edu/2019/08/does-sterilizing-stray-cats-work/.
- Coe, Seraiah T., et al. “Free-Ranging Domestic Cat Abundance and Sterilization Percentage Following Five Years of a Trap–Neuter–Return Program.” Wildlife Biology, vol. 2021, no. 1, 11 Feb. 2021, https://doi.org/10.2981/wlb.00799.
- Kellogg, Cecily. “Science of Roaming Cats.” FIGO, FIGO Pet Insurance, LLC, https://figopetinsurance.com/blog/science-roaming-cats.
- Kortis, Bryan. "Targeted TNR: Making an Impact." Delaware Animal Rescue Summit, May 19, 2016, Neighborhood Cats.
- Petrie, Kristen. “Mass Trapping Success: Here's What You Need to Know.” The Community Cats Podcast, 30 Aug. 2022, https://www.communitycatspodcast.com/mass-trapping-success-heres-what-you-need-to-know/?mc_cid=04bd8e126d&mc_eid=fe629f1d8b.
- Yates, Diana. “Researchers Track the Secret Lives of Feral and Free-Roaming House Cats.” Illinois News Bureau, University of Illinois, 26 May 2011, https://news.illinois.edu/view/6367/205315.
- Zielinski, Sarah. “The Secret Lives of Feral Cats.” Smithsonian Magazine, Smithsonian Institution, 31 May 2011, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/the-secret-lives-of-feral-cats-179790776/.