ALLEY CAT RESCUE
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Hard to catch cats 

Nearly every colony has at least one cat who is particularly hard to catch. When a conventional box trap won’t do the trick, you can try some alternative methods to trap

Drop trap
It is common for cats to be fearful of entering a regular box trap. This is why food is withheld the day prior, so that the cats are enticed to enter the trap with the promise of food. However, some cats still may not go in, despite their hunger. In these cases, a drop trap is a good alternative. While cats may be afraid to go into a box trap, they are not afraid to go under a drop trap.

Camouflage traps
 Oftentimes, a feral cat will be more likely to enter a box trap when the trap looks as if it is part of the natural surroundings. In grassy or wooded areas, you can camouflage the trap by placing burlap on the trap’s floor and over the top and sides. Keep the front and rear doors clear so the cat can easily enter as well as have a clear view out. On the burlap, place sticks, leaves, and other objects found nearby. To make the trap appear as if it’s part of the environment, place it near a bush or under a tree. If you are in an urban setting, place the trap inside a long cardboard box, with the front and rear doors unobstructed. On the box, sprinkle materials found nearby. Alternatively, you can lean a board against a wall or a fence with the trap placed underneath. Ultimately, the better the trap blends in with its surroundings, the more likely it will be that the cat will enter it.
 
Train the cat to enter the trap 
 Assuming a trap can be safely left outdoors for a prolonged period of time, it is possible to train the cat to enter it. This should only be done in a secure area, such as a backyard or private courtyard. It is also possible to train a whole colony with this technique, using one trap for each cat. Typically, the process takes approximately one to two weeks. For best results, follow these steps:
  • Using a stick, twist tie, or similar item, secure the front door of the trap in a raised position.
  • Place the trap near the cat’s normal feeding spot. Leave it there for the duration of the training.
  • On day one, put the cat’s regular meal in a small plate or bowl about a foot or two away from the trap’s front door. For more skittish cats, start farther away from the trap.
  • Put the plate in the same spot until the cat begins eating the food. For the next meal, reposition the plate so it is about six inches closer to the trap’s front door. After the cat is comfortable eating from the new spot, again move the food closer to the front door.
  • Continue this process until the plate is right in front of the trap. Once the cat is comfortable eating there, place the plate a few inches inside the trap. Wait for the cat to eat, then continue moving the plate farther inside the trap, until it is all the way in the back.
  • When ready to trap, bait the trap at the time the cat is used to eating and set the trigger.
 
See-through rear door 
 For trap-shy cats, a good solution is to use a trap with a see-through rear door. Fearful cats are more likely to enter a trap if they believe there is a way out at the other end, and a transparent rear door creates this illusion. Once the cat has been caught, use a trap divider to position her towards the front of the trap, then replace the see-through door with a normal one.
 
Bottle and String 
Cats can be very clever. Some know how to avoid the trip plate yet still reach the bait. One way to combat this is to use a bottle and string to manually close the front door. You can do this by opening the front door and propping a corner on a full one-liter plastic bottle. Then attach one end of a long piece of string around the base of the bottle and move away from the trap while holding the other end of the string. Once the cat is all the way in the trap, pull the string so that the bottle will move and thus shuts the front door. The bottle and string method can also be used to single out a particular cat, such as one who pregnant or injured. To do this, put a large amount of bait in the rear of the trip. This way, numerous cats can go in and have a nibble then leave while you wait for the intended cat to do the same.
The bottle and string method can also be useful for trapping young kittens, as large and powerful adult traps can be dangerous if they malfunction. Additionally, kittens might not be heavy enough to trigger the trap plate. Therefore, it is important to use a humane trap made specifically for kittens. Attach a string to the bottle so you can spring the trap manually once the kitten is safely inside. Once the kitten is fully inside the trap, pull the string quickly to remove the water bottle. Also, set out at least one trap per kitten to discourage them from following each other into the same trap. Multiple kittens may still enter the same trap, so be extra careful that none of them get caught in the trap door. If two kittens are caught in the same trap, either use an isolator to transfer one into another trap, or bring an extra trap to the clinic so they can be separated after surgery. 

​Hide the trip plate
 

Another way to catch a cat who avoids the trip plate is to hide the plate with newspaper. Place the newspaper over the plate, the area in front of it, and a little bit behind it. If it is windy, secure the newspaper with clothespins so that it doesn’t flap around and scare the cat. Another technique is to slide a stick through the trap a few inches off the ground right in front of the plate. Having to step over the stick will force the cat’s paw to land on the hidden trip plate.
 
Lure into a closed place
 If you can lure a cat into a basement, shed, or garage, trapping her will be much easier. Once the cat is inside, you can set up a baited trap and wait to see if she enters, or you could attempt to run her into the trap. If you opt to wait patiently, place a baited trap in the space. Refill the bait at least two times a day and leave water outside the trap at all times. Place a litter box as well as a pile of newspaper in case she is unfamiliar with litter. Don’t deprive the cat of food for more than two or three days, and don’t withhold food from kittens or cats with special needs for more than a few hours.
A quicker way to trap the cat is to place a large board against a wall and hide a trap behind it. With a sheet, cover the board so that the open space above and to the side of the trap is blocked, but don’t cover the trap door. This should be done on both the back and front ends. Remove or block off any potential hiding places before attempting to lure the cat into the space. The theory is that once the cat realizes she is stuck, she will search for a place to hide. Because there is no where else to go, she will run behind the board and into the trap. If the cat somehow does find a place to hide, use a broom or similar long object to try and gently coax her out. If for whatever reason she refuses to go behind the board or into the trap, set a baited trap along with some water and litter/newspaper and attempt to trap her again later once she has calmed down.
 
 
 
 
References 
​
 
Hard-to-catch cats. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.neighborhoodcats.org/how-to-tnr/trapping/hard-to-catch-cats
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  • Home
    • About >
      • Email Sign-up
      • Frequently Asked Questions
      • History >
        • Our Team
        • Board of Directors
        • Financial Information
        • Privacy Policy
        • Partners
    • Press
    • Our Stories
    • Action Alerts >
      • Welfare Programs >
        • Petitions
        • California Declaw Bill
        • New York Declaw Bill
        • PACT Act
        • Spay Neuter Pledge
        • Michigan TNR bill
        • No Declaw Pledge
        • Toxoplasmosis gondii, Cats, and the Threats Posed to Pregnant Women
        • Adoptions >
          • Cats available for adoption
          • Adoption Inquiry Form
          • New Cat Checklist
          • Introducing A New Cat
        • Campaigns >
          • Working Cats Program >
            • Shelters with Working Cat Programs
          • African Wildcat >
            • Press Release on African Wildcat Campaign
            • Differences between AWCs and domestic cats
          • The Feral Fix
          • End Deadly Eradication Methods Campaign
          • "Fix the Family" Campaign
    • News >
      • ACR Newsletters
      • Press Releases
  • Spay/Neuter
    • COVID-19 Protocol for S/N Clinic
    • Early Age Spay/Neuter
    • Misconceptions About Spay/Neuter
    • Types of Spay and Neuter Procedures
    • State Low Cost Spay/Neuter
  • How to Help Community Cats
    • Find a Stray Cat?
    • What is a Feral Cat? >
      • Feral vs. Stray Cats
      • Benefits of Feral Cats
    • TNR-- What does this mean? >
      • TNR Statistics
      • TNR Step-by-Step
      • TNR: Do It Yourself!
      • Targeted Trapping
      • TNR Tips
      • Hard to Catch Cats
      • TNR Equipment Resources
      • TNR/Community Cat Care Financial Resources
      • Where to Buy TNR Equipment
      • Helping Shelters Implement TNR Programs
      • Adopting Adult Feral Cats >
        • Feral Kittens >
          • What to do if you find kittens
          • Stages of Kitten Development
          • Orphaned Kittens
          • Socializing Feral Kittens
          • Fostering Kittens
        • How Rescuers Can Effectively Adopt Out Cats
      • Common Complaints
      • Providing Shelter
    • State Resources
    • Health Care
    • Cat Overpopulation
    • Relocation
    • Feral Cats and the Law
    • Cats and Wildlife >
      • Cats and Predation
      • Where have all the birds gone?
      • Debunking the Myths and Misinformation: Cat Predation
      • Why Eradication Methods Fail
    • Handbook Download
  • Cat Health
    • Health Care for Your Cat >
      • Vaccines
      • Wellness Vet Checkups
      • Microchiping
      • Nail Trimmings
      • Effects of aging
      • Hospice Care and Euthanasia Decisions
      • Financial Assistance
      • Cat Supplies
      • How to Prepare for an Emergency
      • Pet Food Banks
    • Common Cat Health Issues >
      • Feline Panleukopenia
      • Fleas
      • FIP, FeLV, FIV >
        • Testing for FeLV/FIV
      • Zoonotic Diseases
      • Rabies
      • Toxoplasmosis
      • Ringworm - Symptoms and Treatment
      • Ringworm Myths Debunked
      • Obesity in Cats
      • Diabetes
      • Indoor/Outdoor Cats >
        • Winter Tips for Protecting Cats
        • Summer Tips for Cats
    • Cats & Claws
    • Animal Cruelty Against Cats
    • Hazardous Poisons
    • Poisonous Plants
    • Pet Disaster Preparedness
    • COVID-19 Pet Food Banks
    • Cats and COVID-19
  • Cat Behavior
    • Solutions to Prevent Surrendering you cat
    • Common Cat Behavior Issues
    • Litter Box Problems
    • Scratching and Destructive Behavior
    • Meowing and Yowling
    • Urine Marking
    • Aggressive Cats
    • Cat Enrichment
    • Introducing Cats
    • Cat on Cat Aggression
    • Behavior Issues in Elderly Cats
    • Tips for Entertaining an Indoor Cat
    • Cat Supply Resources
    • Lost Cat
  • Donate
  • Store