Phone: 301-277-5595
Fact Sheet on Trap-Neuter-ReturnBack to Cat Facts
Trap-neuter-return (TNR) is recommended only for colonies of feral cats
who can be returned to supervised sites where long-term care can be assured.
Stray, domestic cats need to be re-socialized and placed in homes. Spaying
and neutering colonies of cats:
- stabilizes the population at manageable levels
- eliminates "annoying" behaviors associated with mating (fighting, yowling, and "spraying toms");
- helps make the animals easier to deal with over the long term (re: trapping for future veterinary treatment)
- is more effective and less costly than repeated attempts at eradication
- is humane to the animals and fosters compassion in the community.
Introduction
The community, the caretakers and the property owner where the cats
reside, should organize and carry out this plan. Money may be available
from an established organization or may have to be raised by voluntary
contributions. Local governments should be approached and asked to contribute
to the fund, as TNR will save them money over time. The initial cost
may seem high but the long-term costs are less than those spent on repeated
eradication attempts. The major expenses are for equipment, veterinary
services, and food.
Main Steps for Implementation
Assessment
Identify all those who feed the cats and all feeding sites. Make
a list of all the cats, their state of health, and whether females are
pregnant, or feeding kittens. Identify the cats who are only occasional
visitors or who are friendly, as these may be companion animals. All neighbors
should be notified of your procedures before trapping begins to prevent
them from thinking you will harm the cats. The location should be evaluated
as to whether or not it is an appropriate environment in which to keep
the colony. Buildings scheduled for demolition or areas too close to major
highways may not be suitable. For the most part, the area where the cats
are living is the best place to keep them. If relocation is necessary,
find a suitable new location (see ACR's fact sheet, Relocating
Feral Cats). However, relocation should be the last option. The planning
group may be very creative in finding a solution. Euthanasia is only recommended
for very sick cats who cannot be treated.
Planning
Make arrangements for kittens and cats that may be tame enough to
be domesticated after veterinary treatment. Rescuers and colony caretakers
should sterilize all cats and kittens prior to adoption. They should charge
an adoption fee which will help recover part of the cost. Early-age sterilization
can be performed on kittens eight weeks old or two pounds in weight. Obtain
humane traps and transfer cages, and learn how to properly use them. Make
arrangements for transport, overnight stay, and delivery to and collection
from the surgery.
Trapping
Don’t leave the cat in an unprotected trap and never leave the cat
where she might be threatened by other animals, people, or weather. Immediately
cover the trap with a towel or blanket when the cat is caught in order
to calm her down. When one cat has been trapped, it can be moved to the
transfer cage so that the trap can be used for a second cat. Do not trap
in inclement weather, especially during heat waves - traumatized cats are
very susceptible to heat stroke. The use of "rabies poles" and
tranquilizers are discouraged. Tranquilized cats may leave the area before
the tranquilizer takes effect and can get into situations that could endanger
their lives, such as wandering onto busy streets. Do not trap lactating
mothers, if possible. If, however, a lactating mother is trapped you need
to make a decision on whether to have her spayed - she could be hard to
retrap. If you keep her, find her kittens as soon as possible.
Veterinary Care
Discuss the plan with the veterinarian and a possible fee reduction
for the whole colony. Confirm beforehand that the veterinarian and technicians
are aware that these cats are feral and prepared to treat them. A squeeze-side
cage is an option for the clinic to use. A moveable panel in this type
of cage immobilizes the cat allowing her to be tranquilized before handling.
It is much safer for the veterinarian to tranquilize the cat through the
bars of the trap. To avoid the necessity of a second trapping, dissolvable
sutures must be used. Males should be fostered overnight and females, if
possible, should be kept for two to three nights before returning. All
cats to be returned must be identified by clipping one quarter inch off
the top of the left ear. If the ear is properly cauterized, this procedure
is trouble-free. All cats should be treated for worms and earmites, inoculated
with a three-year rabies vaccine and distemper vaccine, and given a long-term
antibiotic injection. Remember to inform the vet. that the cats are to
be returned to their colonies.
Taming & Domestication
Although some older feral cats can be domesticated, the best time
to tame ferals is before they are eight weeks old. While it is possible
to domesticate some older kittens and cats, if no homes are available and
your local shelter is killing unwanted domestic kittens, a more humane
and practical solution is to sterilize feral kittens from 12 weeks old,
vaccinate, and return to colony.
Relocation
When returning to the original site is not possible, relocate the
cat to a different site, such as a farm, a riding stable, or even a back
yard, as long as new caretakers are willing to take responsibility for
consistent food and shelter (see Fact Sheet… Relocating Feral Cats).
Relocating may take several weeks or months and must be undertaken with
the utmost of care. “Dumping” of feral cats in rural areas
is strongly discouraged as the cats will, in all probability, move off
and be unable to a food source. They may starve to death. If you do not
confine the cats properly for 2 to 3 weeks, they may not remain on the
property. This can lead to a similar situation as mentioned above.
Long-Term Maintenance