Email: acr@saveacat.org
Phone: 301-277-5595
Blog: http://alleycatrescue.blogspot.com

Alley Cat Rescue FAQs

What Is a Feral Cat?

 

What Is the Difference Between a Stray Cat and a Feral Cat?

 

What Should I Do if I Find a Stray or Feral Cat?

 

What Should I Do if I Find an Orphaned Kitten?

 

What Should I Do: There is a Feral Cat Colony at My Apartment Building or Behind a Convenience Store?

 

What Should I Do If My Indoor Cat Escaped the House? How Do I Find Him?

 

What’s Life Like for a Feral Cat?

 

What Is the Average Lifespan of a Feral Cat

 

What is Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR)?

 

What is Ear-Tipping and Why is it Important?

 

How Does TNR Help Feral Cats?

 

How Does TNR Benefit the Community?

 

Would it be Better for Feral Cats to be Euthanized?

 

Does Eradication of Feral Cat Colonies Work?

 

Why Don’t Feeding Bans Eliminate Feral Cats?

 

Can and Should Feral Cat Colonies be Relocated?

 

Should Feral Cats be Tested for Viral Diseases? 

 

What do I do: My Newly Rescued Cat/Kitten Tests Positive for Feline Leukemia (FeLV) or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)?

 

Why do Orphan and Stray Kittens get Upper Respiratory Infections so Easily? What can be Done to Help Control Them?

 

What are the Most Common Parasites Cats get?

 

How did the Cat Become Domesticated?

 

Which is the Most Popular Cat Breed?

 

How Many Cat Breeds are there?




 

What Is a Feral Cat?

 

Cats are complex creatures and no two are alike. The answer to what is a feral cat is therefore also fairly complex. A feral cat is a free-roaming cat who is born and raised in the wild or has been abandoned or lost and has reverted back to its “wild” instinctual self in order to survive. Feral cats are also called “alley cats,” “street cats,” “outside cats,” or “wild house-cats” just to name a few. While some feral cats tolerate different degrees of human contact, most are too fearful and wild to be handled. Some feral cats are rarely seen, coming out only at night to look for food. Feral cats often live in groups, or colonies, and reside wherever they can find food. They seek out abandoned buildings, deserted cars, and storm-water drains for shelter against the weather conditions.


While it is true that many feral cats suffer, especially first generations, (or when they struggle to find food and shelter), but subsequent feral generations that survive to adulthood, become very successful at survival; this is the reason for feral cats living in almost every city and town in the world. They are opportunistic animals and have filled niches left by other predators that humans have either killed off or who left after urban and suburban development. Any cat has the potential to become feral, even a pure-bred cat. Most feral cat caretakers have seen feral Siamese, feral Burmese, and feral Persians; long-haired feral cats have very badly matted fur and some caretakers have to re-trap them each year to shave their fur.


 

What Is the Difference Between a Stray Cat and a Feral Cat?

 

A stray cat is someone’s pet who has become lost or is abandoned. A feral cat is born in the wild or has reverted to a “wild” lifestyle in order to survive on its own. Stray cats are usually tame and comfortable with people. They will rub against legs, purr, and meow. Feral cats are notably quiet and keep their distance. Most feral cats will only venture out at night. Stray cats will also often try to make a home near humans—in car garages, front porches or backyards. Most are completely reliant on humans as a food source and are not yet able to cope with life on the streets.

 



What Should I Do if I Find a Stray or Feral Cat?

 

Firstly, please use caution, especially if you are not familiar with cats. It is fairly easy to tell the difference between a stray cat (a lost pet) and a feral cat, but even a stray cat may attack; stray cats can be frightened and act out of character. If you are unsure and do not feel comfortable handling the cat, please call a local no-kill rescue for assistance. You can check our Cat Action Links to find a rescue in your area or visit PetFinder.com.

 

Next, try to find out if the cat has a home by asking neighbors. The cat might belong to a neighbor farther up the street or down a few blocks from you. Hang “Found” signs in the local area with the cat’s picture, call local animal shelters to report you found a cat, and place notices in local newspapers.

 

Keep him isolated in your house and make sure your other cats are up-to-date on their vaccines. Whether you are going to keep him or you are going to find him a home, please get him checked by a veterinarian. You want to make sure he is vaccinated, tested for diseases, and sterilized. Plus, the vet can give you more information on the cat’s overall health.

 

If you cannot keep him, please try to find him a good home. Call friends, family, and colleagues and put up signs at your vet’s office. Find out if any local "No-Kill" shelter in your area could take him. But chances are that if you take him to your local county shelter, they will euthanize him, as they usually have too many animals. And do not run FREE TO GOOD HOME ADS; individuals who answer these ads are mostly dangerous, unscrupulous people.

 

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What Should I Do if I Find an Orphaned Kitten?

 

First, try to find the mother; it is difficult to hand raise any young animal. Look in nearby bushes, under cars and porches, and in neighbors’ sheds. If you cannot find her, you should keep the kitten warm. A very little kitten should be kept on a heating pad, even during the summer months. Wrap the heating pad in a towel or sheet, so that it does not burn the kitten. They cannot regulate their own body temperatures, and may not be able to move off the heating pad if it gets too hot. Ideally, they have their mother and siblings to keep warm.

Next, you should buy some special kitten milk from a pet store or your veterinarian. This milk is specially formulated to feed kittens or pregnant or nursing mother cats. If it is the middle of the night, cows’ milk will work for a couple of feedings until you can get the kitten milk, but you need to add an egg yolk. This should only be for short-term feedings. A very young kitten needs to be fed around the clock. The instructions are on the container. Feed first with a dropper. This is easier to use at the beginning than getting the kitten used to a bottle. Eventually, you can try a bottle. You must stimulate the kitten's tummy after each feeding to make his bodily functions work. A warm damp washcloth is perfect for this; this will also help with clean-up. Use warm water to keep these areas clean. Remember the mother cat usually does all of this for him. Just remember to dry the kitten after bowel movements and keep his body temperature warm.

 

As kittens grow stronger and bigger, you can also feed them baby food. Just make sure you only feed them plain meat foods, like chicken and broth or beef and broth. Do NOT feed them baby food that has ONION POWDER in it; this is toxic to cats. So, make sure to read the ingredients.

 

For more information on caring for young kittens and how to tame feral kittens, please see our factsheets under our Cat and Feral Facts section.

 


 

What Should I Do: There is a Feral Cat Colony at My Apartment Building or Behind a Convenience Store?

 

First, find out if a rescue group in your area is managing the colony via TNR. You can call around and ask local groups and/or talk to a manager of the building/store. If no one seems to be helping the cats, a TNR program will need to be implemented. Explain to those involved that you will be assisting the cats by getting them sterilized and vaccinated. Explain that you will be the colony’s caretaker and looking after the cats’ well-being. You may contact a local rescue to borrow traps and for spay/neuter services.

 

For more information on TNR and getting started, please see our factsheets under the Cat and Feral Facts section. Also, visit our Cat Action Links to locate a rescue organization near you.

 

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What Should I Do If My Indoor Cat Escaped the House?How Do I Find Him?

 

Do not panic! This can only make the situation worse. Usually when a cat escapes from a house, he is very frightened by his new surroundings and will find a place close by to hide. Some cats find open sheds and garages nearby to hide in. Visit your neighbors and ask if they can check these for you. Put food and water out in several places. Scatter his used cat litter around your yard; his familiar scent will help him locate his home.

 

If you do see him, DO NOT rush at him because you could scare him; this may push him away even further. Take your time and try making friends with him with food (try some treats or catnip). He will be scared; sometimes, escapees act as though they have never seen their guardians before in their lives. If you cannot catch him by hand, it may be easier to use a humane trap to get him.

 

If you cannot find him after a day or two, call your local animal control agency and those in surrounding areas to report him missing. Put notices in local newspapers and hang signs with photos on telephone poles and at the vet’s office. In times like these, it is an excellent idea to make sure your cat (and all of your pets) is micro-chipped. If your cat is found and taken to a vet or animal shelter, the first thing they will do is scan him for a chip. This will provide them with your contact information and make finding re-uniting you and your pet much easier and more guaranteed.

 


 

What’s Life Like for a Feral Cat?

 

Life for a feral cat is not an easy one, but the same is true for any wild animal (squirrel, raccoon, opossum, deer), who must endure weather extremes, face starvation, infections, parasites, being attacked by other animals, and being hit by a car. However, feral cats also face eradication either from humans “who just don’t like cats” or from some animal control and government agencies, who want a “quick fix” to a complex problem. Those who support the removing and killing of cats use an array of methods to do so, including poisoned bait, trapping, gassing, and steel leg-hold traps.


When people/groups say feral cats are “unhealthy,” “malnourished,” or “sickly” and say they should be “put out of their misery,” they are sighting cats who are not being cared for, those who are not part of a managed colony. Feral cats who live in a managed colony—a colony with a dedicated caretaker who provides spay/neuter services, regular feedings and proper shelter—live healthy and quite content lives. This is why TNR programs need to be supported, and there needs to be far more of them; so more cats can be helped and the number of them living homeless can be reduced.  


Professor Peter Neville, an animal behaviorist from the UK says, “Fortunately, or more accurately, through the adaptable perfection of its design, the feral cat is able to survive long enough as an individual for the population to maintain itself in a large range of environments and under a wide range of conditions.”¹ Irresponsible humans are to blame for the current cat homelessness issue, because they did not and continue not to spay/neuter their animals. They also permit their animals to roam freely or they have abandoned their animals altogether; but either way, these unsterilized cats are now freely permitted to breed and produce unwanted litters of kittens. The most humane thing we can do for these animals is to sterilize them and provide them some basic care (food, shelter, medical attention). And then just let them live their lives as they are meant to.

 

Yes, feral cats are similar to squirrels, raccoons, and opossums, but they are also very different. Feral cats were created by humans; we created their situation. Through history cats were domesticated and became companion animals to humans. Therefore, even though they are “wild” animals, they still have a bond with humans and naturally interact with us (unlike other animals). This bond gives us a responsibility “to do right” by them and humanely manage their colonies; we owe it to them to view them as valuable and as worthy of the same respect all life deserves.    
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¹ Neville, Peter. Do Cats Need Shrinks? London: Sidgwick and Jackson, 1990.

 

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What Is the Average Lifespan of a Feral Cat?

 

There is a debate over this topic. Some say, if a cat survives kittenhood, its average lifespan is two years or less. While others say, the average lifespan is around five to seven years. Both sides agree that if a cat belongs to a managed colony, it will have a longer lifespan, reaching ten years of age. ACR believes the average lifespan of a feral cat is around five years, with cats reaching much older ages when living in a managed colony.

 

A survey conducted by Alley Cat Allies, in 1992, found that out of 269 respondents, 92 people said their colony cats were four to eight years old. Thirty-one respondents said that their colony cats were over nine years old.

 

In the United Kingdom, biologist Paul Rees discovered that when he looked at data from 287 surveys on feral colonies that most colonies (74.6 percent) were considered to be more than five years old.


According to the ASPCA’s website, “If a feral cat survives kittenhood, his average lifespan is less than two years if living on his own. If a cat is lucky enough to be in a colony that has a caretaker, he may reach 10 years.” 


Roger Caras, (former president of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), said in National Wildlife, that the average lifespan of cats lost or abandoned “‘isn’t even two years.’” Author, Ellen Perry Berkeley questioned him about the source of this figure, “Largely folk wisdom,” Caras relied, “although the age of dogs and cats collected as dead-on-roads (DOR) seemed to indicate a two-year median.” Berkeley goes on to point out that this figure is only relevant if “the animals killed on roads are representative of all the animals out there.” She points out that the DOR sample does not include cats that die elsewhere, away from roads and humans (cats, like most animals, wander off to find a private place to die).²

 

TNR pioneer, Celia Hammond, weighs in on the debate over life and death in colonies of cats.
Hammond, of Britain’s Cat Action Trust, who has been working with feral cat colonies for decades, stated:  “As might be expected, some of the cats who were neutered several years ago have reached quite a ripe old age and several have had to be put to sleep…A small number of elderly cats have disappeared altogether without having previously appeared ill and one must assume that they have died. Obviously this is regrettable but I do not think one can condemn the system because of the very few occasions that this happened. They are wild, and it is natural for them to go away somewhere to die when their time has come…We surely would not consider that other wild animals, such as foxes or badgers, should be put to sleep in their prime to save them the experience of growing old and dying.” ³
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² Perry Berkeley, Ellen. Maverick Cats: Encounters with Feral Cats. Vermont: The New England Press, 2001.
³ Hammond, Celia. Long Term Management of Feral Cat Colonies in: The Ecology and Control of Feral Cats: Proceedings of a Symposium at Royal Holloway College, University of London. September 23-24, 1980. Hertfordshire, United Kingdom: Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, 1981; 90-91. 

 

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What is Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR)?

 

Trap-Neuter-Return is a non-lethal method to reduce the feral cat population and improve the quality of life for cats, birds, wildlife, and people. TNR involves humanely trapping feral cats, having them spayed or neutered, vaccinated and then returning them to their colony to live out their lives. TNR also entails a colony caretaker who provides food, shelter and monitors the cats’ health. All kittens and ‘adoptable” cats are removed from the colony and placed into an adoption program.


TNR has been shown to be the least costly, as well as the most efficient and humane way, of stabilizing feral cat populations. Lastly, TNR fosters compassion within the community and educates the public on the importance of sterilization, keeping cats indoors, and the alternatives to abandoning pets.


For more information on TNR, please check out our factsheets under our Cat and Feral Facts Section. (make this a link to the page)

 


 

What is Ear-Tipping and Why is it Important?

 

Ear-tipping is a widely accepted means of marking or tagging a feral cat who has been spayed or neutered. It often identifies a cat as being part of a managed colony. Ear-tipping is the surgical removal of 1/4 tip of the left ear. The procedure is performed by a licensed veterinarian, typically during the spay/neuter surgery. (The cat is under anesthesia while the procedure is performed and does not require sutures.) Ear-tipping is safe and rarely requires special aftercare. Ear-tipping is especially important as it prevents an already spayed or neutered cat the stress of re-trapping and more importantly, an unnecessary surgery. The silhouette of an ear-tipped cat is very distinct and easily recognizable.

 

For more information on ear-tipping, please see our factsheet under the Cat and Feral Facts section.

 

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How Does TNR Help Feral Cats?

 

Instead of trapping and killing (eradicating) a feral cat colony, cats are permitted to live out their lives just like other animals, while not adding to the homeless cat population. Stabilizing populations of cats will naturally allow colonies more space, shelter, food, and fewer risks of disease. All kittens and “adoptable” cats are removed from the colony and natural attrition will make populations become more manageable.


After being sterilized, cats living in colonies tend to gain weight and live healthier lives. Spayed cats are less likely to develop breast cancer and will not be at risk for ovarian or uterine cancer, while neutered males will not get testicular cancer. By neutering male cats, it also reduces the risk of injury and infection, since intact males have a natural instinct to fight with other cats. In turn, this reduces the risk of transmitting FIV; which occurs through deep bite wounds. Spaying female cats also means they do not go into heat and therefore attract less tom cats to the area, reducing fighting. Lastly, there is a decrease in transmission of FIV and FeLV by spaying females, since these diseases can be spread through breeding.


Feral cats who are TNRed also receive a rabies vaccination (and ACR cats receive a distemper vaccine). Vaccinating feral cats against rabies creates a buffer zone between wildlife and humans, decreasing the likelihood of transmission. It is also important for feral cats to receive a distemper vaccine because it is a highly contagious and rapidly progressive infection which is often fatal. If cats are sterilized and live in a colony that has a caretaker, their life span may reach more than ten years.


ACR also provides feral cats with both a topical flea treatment and internal parasite treatment. Fleas can cause anemia from blood loss, which is sometimes fatal, particularly in kittens and cats with an infestation. Fleas also transmit parasites, like round-worms, to their host. Because roundworms live in the small intestine, they steal the nutrients from the food feral cats eat and that can lead to malnutrition and intestinal problems. Roundworm larvae can also move through the cat's body, causing serious respiratory problems such as pneumonia. In addition, some internal parasites, like roundworms, are also zoonotic diseases, meaning they can be transmitted to humans. Ultimately, TNR not only benefits feral cats, it also benefits humans.

 


 

How Does TNR Benefit the Community?  

 

TNR helps the community by stabilizing, and over time reducing, its feral cat population. At the same time, TNR reduces euthanasia rates at local county shelters, by reducing the number of unwanted kittens being born and freeing up space at the shelters, for cats who are relinquished by their owners.


TNR also reduces nuisance behaviors such as spraying, “yowling” and fighting; plus, no more kittens are being born in backyards. An established, stable, vaccinated, and sterilized colony of feral cats will deter other stray and feral cats from moving into the area. This actually decreases the risk that residents will encounter an unvaccinated cat.

 

Feral cats provide excellent rodent control and eliminating problems associated with mice and rats. Often feral cats fill in a gap in the current ecosystem, where natural predators, like bobcats, have been hunted to extinction or driven away by human encroachment. Feral cats are similar in size and behavior to native feline predators and help to control the same species of small prey animals.

 

For more information on how feral cats can benefit communities, please see our factsheet under the Cat and Feral Facts section.

 

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Would it be Better for Feral Cats to be Euthanized?

 

Some people feel sorry for feral cats because of their difficult and dangerous life, while others are annoyed by the cats' behaviors and want the cats removed. What ever the sentiment towards feral cats, many people (even if they want the cats removed) do not want the cats to be euthanized. The majority do not wish feral cats to be trapped and killed.


As Celia Hammond previously mentioned, “They are wild, and it is natural for them to go away somewhere to die when their time has come. We surely would not consider that other wild animals, such as foxes or badgers, should be put to sleep in their prime to save them the experience of growing old and dying.” Feral cats live just as other wild animals do, facing similar obstacles (some even life-threatening), but we do not round up all the raccoons, opossums, skunks, and deer and euthanize them.  


In addition, even if there were enough people and money to remove and euthanize feral cats, other feral cats would move into the vacant territory, taking advantage of the newly available food source and shelter. It's an endless cycle; that is why sterilization via TNR is the preferred alternative to euthanasia.


When feral cats are TNRed, their health improves because they no longer have kittens and fight over mates, and nuisance behaviors are greatly reduced or eliminated. The colony's dedicated caretaker provides food, water and shelter, watches over the health of the cats and removes any newcomers for TNR (if feral) or adoption (if tame).

 



Does Eradication of Feral Cat Colonies Work?

 

Eradication attempts are only temporary “quick fixes” that sacrifice animals' lives unnecessarily and yield no positive or beneficial return. Study after study has shown that eradication (trap and kill) does NOT work and in many cases, it is counterproductive. Eradication causes a “vacuum effect,” meaning, within a few short months, other stray cats quickly move in and fill the vacated territories and start the breeding process over again. Roger Tabor discusses this phenomenon saying, “Although a total ‘wipe-out’ often appeals to authorities due to its apparent simplicity, it normally fails, as it does not allow for biological reality, and worse, is often counterproductive.” 4 Meaning, when cats are removed, rodent popu­la­tions explode and increase the spreading of disease. Instead of eradicating a colony and killing cats, steriliza­tion would be the most effective and humane method of control. Roger Tabor adds that, “if a colony is neutered and returned to its area it will continue to hold the location and keep other cats out by its presence. The group’s popu­lation will gradually decline over a few years.”

 

Eradication at­tempts are a waste of taxpayer money and are cruel to the animals being culled. A new study commissioned by Best Friends Animal Society and funded by Petsmart Charaties shows that TNR programs for community cats have the potential to cut taxpayer costs in half over the traditional “catch and kill” method. According to the study, it would cost governmental entities about $16 billion to trap and kill feral cats as opposed to about $9 billion for supporting TNR programs run by rescue organizations and individual volunteers. Unfortunately, the debate still continues on how to “classify” feral cats (i.e. exotic, invasive species, domestic). Many states consider feral cats to be invasive species. Eradication methods for invasive species include pesticides, herbicides, introducing viruses, poisoned bait, trapping, shooting, using trained dogs, etc. Clearly, anti-cruelty laws do not apply to invasive species.

 

For more information, please check out our factsheets under our Cat and Feral Facts section.
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4 Roger Tabor. “Understanding Cats.” Readers Digest, 1997.

 

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Why Don’t Feeding Bans Eliminate Feral Cats?

 

The logic behind such bans is that if there is no food available, the cats will go away. This is not true.
“Starving out” cats will only make the situation worse for the community and for the cats. Feral cats are territorial animals who can survive for weeks without food and will not easily or quickly leave their territory to search for new food sources. Instead, they tend to move closer into human habitations as they grow hungrier and more desperate. Their malnourished condition will also make them more susceptible to parasitic infestations, such as fleas and roundworms. Plus, feeding bans do nothing to stop reproduction, so malnourished cats will continue to give birth, resulting in the visible deaths of many kittens. (Feed cats are healthier cats.)


Individuals who feed stray/feral cats should NOT be blamed or penalized, but rather encouraged for their acts of compassion. City officials should be assisting them with the resources and information available to care for and sterilize these animals. After all, it is not necessarily their fault the cats are homeless; they are just trying to be upstanding citizens and do good for their community and for the cats. Caretakers use their own money to feed and sterilize feral cats, so it makes no sense to use tax-payer money to hand out fines and take people to court (or put elderly ladies in jail). Under current laws, indi­viduals and rescue organizations work everyday in a shadow of fear from being persecuted for helping animals, and we are tired of working this way. Feeding bans are rarely effective and are nearly impossible to enforce. Repeated experience has shown that people who care about the cats' welfare will go to great lengths, risking their homes, jobs and even their liberty, to feed starving animals. It makes no sense to penalize people who are trying to improve the situation for homeless animals and for being involved in their communities. Out-dated laws HAVE to change and compassionate people should be encouraged to continue to take care of feral colonies. 

 



Can and Should Feral Cat Colonies be Relocated?


Relocation is not suggested and only should be performed if the cats’ lives are in danger (i.e. territory to be demolished, no adjacent space to shift them to). Feral cats are highly connected to their territory. They are familiar with the food sources, where to find shelter, resident wildlife, other cats in the area and potential threats to their safety—all things that help them survive. Relocation of feral cat colonies is difficult to orchestrate and not 100-percent successful even if done correctly.
However, if relocation is the only alternative, particular procedures must be followed to ensure its success (and the safety of the cats). For more information on relocating feral cat colonies, please see our factsheet under the Cat and Feral Facts section.

 

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Should Feral Cats be Tested for Viral Diseases? 


Each colony caretaker, shelter, and veterinarian must make their own decisions about how they wish to spend their resources, and if and which tests to perform. Testing for viral diseases such as FeLV and FIV in feral cat colonies should be optional and not mandatory. The reasons for this are:

 

1. The rate of infection in feral cats is very low, 4% for FeLV and 2% for FIV, based on statistics provided by Julie Levy, DVM Operation Catnip, North Carolina, Feline Medicine Club, University of California at Davis, and Alley Cat Rescue’s colony stats in the Washington D.C. Metropolitan area.

 

2. Funds for sterilization programs are usually limited; therefore, resources may be better spent on sterilization and rabies vaccines, and not on testing. The time taken to collect blood and run tests, plus the cost of testing, may be better spent on sterilization if, as a nation, we are going to reduce the feral cat population (between 60 and 100 million cats) to any great extent.

 

3. FeLV is primarily spread from infected mother cats to kittens, and FIV is mostly spread among fighting tomcats through deep bite wounds. Therefore, spaying and neutering will decrease the spread of these infections thus decreasing the need to test. Also, mass screenings of healthy cats can result in large numbers of false positives. For example, there is no reliable test for FIP (this is also not recommended - FIP is mainly spread through the feces of cats; it is found mainly in catteries and crowded shelters, less in feral cat colonies).

 

Dr. Levy believes "that reproduction causes more miserable deaths (in colonies) than do these viruses." She goes on to say, "we have to remember that the largest cause of death of cats in the U.S. is overpopulation and homelessness. Euthanasia of unwanted cats claims the lives of more cats than all infectious diseases combined." Therefore, you may want to consider NOT testing for these viral diseases, if you have a healthy colony of cats. (Save the money and spend it on sterilization.) But, of course, if cats are showing signs of illness, testing should be performed to help with medical decisions and treatment of the colony.

 

For more guidelines on treating feral cats, please see our Veterinary Care factsheet under the Cat and Feral Facts section. You may also want to read our facthsheet on FeLV and FIV under our Feline Health section.

 


 

What do I do: My Newly Rescued Cat/Kitten Tests Positive for Feline Leukemia (FeLV) or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)?

FeLV is a virus that affects around 4% of all cats (feral or domestic), and FIV affects about 2% of call cats. Cats can be tested for both diseases with a simple in-house (vet) kit or the blood can be sent to a lab. If a cat tests positive, it does not necessarily mean a death sentence for the cat. The good news is that the cat can fight off the virus, which is why a second test is vital around 2 to 3 months after the first positive test. The other good news is that a cat can live for many years after testing positive.


(Usually the younger the cat, the more serious the initial infection is and the less his chances are for survival.) Positive results may also occur if a cat has previously been vaccinated for either FeLV or FIV; the antibodies from the vaccine will show a positive result.

 

Subsequently, one has several options to consider when a cat tests positive. If you are a cat rescuer, in our opinion, you should vaccinate your own cats for FeLV and/or FIV, to give them added protection in case you foster/rescue a cat with either virus. (Brief casual contact will not put your cats’ at risk for FeLV transmission; it has to be prolonged contact, prolonged sharing of litter boxes and food bowls, and mutual grooming. FIV is not transmitted via casual contact; it is transmitted through deep bite wounds sustained during fighting.)  

 

For more information on feline diseases and other important health information, please see our factsheets under the Feline Health section.

 

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Why do Orphan and Stray Kittens get Upper Respiratory Infections so Easily? What can be Done to Help Control Them?

Feline herpesvirus-1 and feline calicivirus are common causes of feline upper respiratory infections (URI). Kittens are highly susceptible to URI because of a few reasons: they have weak immune systems (they have not built up antibodies to such diseases yet), URI is easily transmitted, and some URI agents are resistant to disinfection. Orphan kittens are more susceptible to these viruses if they have not been with their mothers for long, as they will not have acquired immunity from the mother’s milk. Kittens should certainly not be taken away from their mothers for the first ten days. If kittens get sick while still nursing, you can administer antibiotics to the mother cat, who will pass the medication along to the kittens in her milk. Kittens or cats with URI should be given plenty of good food and water and kept warm.

URI may be acquired by coming in contact with an infected cat or from a "carrier" cat (a cat who does not show symptoms of URI but carries/transmits the infection) and from organisms present within the environment. Shelters, breeders, and boarding facilities may have these viruses present in the environment, so you should ensure that your cat is properly vaccinated before taking him for boarding. A regular vaccination schedule will not prevent all URI infections but can help minimize the severity of such diseases. Factors such as overcrowding, poor air quality, poor sanitation, stress, concurrent illness, parasitism, poor nutrition, and other causes of immunosuppression predispose to disease can contribute to URI. Stress, especially from traveling, can also reactivate/trigger the virus. In addition, many of these factors are difficult or impossible to completely eliminate in a typical shelter setting and/or rescue home. Therefore, the most important key to treating URI is PREVENTION. As soon as one cat becomes ill (especially in shelters and multiple-cat households), all the other cats become ill.  

 

Typical symptoms of URI include: clear or colored nasal discharge, sneezing, red/inflamed conjunctiva (white part of the eye), ulcers/sores on the nose, lips, tongue or gums, fever, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Please note these may be signs of other diseases as well, but in either case, if a cat is showing one or more of these symptoms, please consult a veterinarian. Feline herpesvirus may cause corneal ulcers, and in severe cases, URI can cause blindness or death (particularly in kittens). Medical treatment and good care should be started as quickly as possible.

 

Treatment for URI is symptomatic. Your vet first must determine the severity of the infection in order to decide the course of treatment (i.e. does the cat simply have some clear nasal discharge or does the cat have colored nasal discharge, sneezing and inflammation of the eyes). In the first scenario, your vet may suggest the cat be isolated, given a robust diet, and to monitor him; whereas in the latter case, your vet may suggest the same with the addition of administering antibiotics. Eye medications are also helpful. Antibiotics are the most common treatment for URI; however, one must be careful not to over-medicate with antibiotics, for it may compromise normal gastrointestinal flora (good micro organisms residing in the cat’s stomach and intestines), leaving cats vulnerable to the many GI pathogens. Antibiotics are usually recommended to prevent bacterial infections; they do not work against viruses.
Again, vaccines will not prevent URI, but they may lessen the severity and frequency of a cat from acquiring them.

 

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What are the Most Common Parasites Cats get?

 

External parasites: Cats, especially those exposed to the outdoors, are susceptible to fleas and ticks. A flea is a wingless insect whose mouthparts are adapted for piercing skin and sucking blood. A flea has four life stages: adult, egg, larvae, and pupa. The entire lifecycle of a flea is between 14-21 days. The different stages of a flea’s lifecycle make it difficult to eliminate them. This is why one treatment is often not enough to eliminate all the fleas. A tick is a parasite that lives on the blood of mammals, birds, and occasionally reptiles and amphibians.  

 

There are many different options for controlling fleas (and ticks) on your cat, including once-a-month topical products, sprays, dips, shampoos, collars, powders, oral, and injectable products. Once-a-month topicals are insecticides that are put directly onto you cat, usually at the back of the neck. Some kill fleas and others kill fleas, ticks, heartworms, ear mites and roundworms, so it is important to determine which product would work best for your situation. Sprays are sprayed all around the cat, with care to avoid the eyes and mouth; some can be sprayed on carpets, furniture, and other areas where the cat(s) may congregate. Shampoos help to kill any fleas that are already on the cat, though some have residual effects, like dips. Collars can also be effective if put on properly, but some lose their effectiveness if they get wet and should not be used on outside cats. Oral and injectable products usually only kill adult fleas, and do not last every long, so it is important to use a long lasting product. If your cat already has fleas, an oral product, such as Capstar, is great for killing the adult fleas, followed up with a topical product. Oral medications can be crushed into moist food to treat feral cats and sprays used to treat their bedding and shelter areas. You should also request a feral cat receive a topical flea treatment while being TNRed.

 

Outdoor cats are also susceptible to ear mites; which can spread rapidly, transmitted from even brief physical contact with other animals. Ear mites are microscopic and live in the ear canal of mammals. When you take your cat to the vet with a suspected case of ear mites, the Doctor will look in the ears with a lighted otoscope that magnifies the mites; the light from the otoscope draws the mites out of the ear wax and causes them to move around on the wax. If the mites cannot be detected with the otoscope, the veterinarian will take a swab of ear discharge and examine that under a microscope. You should request that a feral cat being TNRed have his ears thoroughly cleaned.

 

Ear mite infection can be treated topically (as mentioned above) after removal of debris from the ear. Topical treatments should be applied to feral cats being TNRed to treat and prevent ear mites. Households with multiple infected pets can be treated with oral or injectable ivermectin. There is also a product that is used on the skin and lasts for about a month.

 

For more information on external parasites, please read the Education Series of our Alley Cat Mews.
 
Internal parasites: Hookworms, roundworms, whip worms, and tapeworms are just a few internal parasites outside cats are prone to. Coccidia is another common parasite found in kittens. These worms are parasites that feed in the digestive tract of a mammal, depleting the host of nutrients, which can lead to malnutrition and intestinal problems. Infection can occur by consuming infective worm eggs from soil in the environment (generally through normal grooming), nursing from a mother cat that was herself infected in late pregnancy (most kittens are infected this way), consuming a prey animal (usually rodent) that is carrying developing worms, and from fleas.
Roundworms are long, white, and look like spaghetti; they are usually vomited up by the cat. Tapeworms are flat and obviously segmented; they area in infected stool and look like rice. Infected cats (especially kittens) may also have a “pot-belly” and/or lose weight.


Fecal testing for worm eggs is a must for kittens and a good idea for adult cats during their annual check up. Regardless of testing, feral cats should be treated regularly for internal parasites. Worms can make cats very sick and even be fatal, especially in kittens. Numerous deworming products are effective. Some are over the counter and some are prescription. Many flea control and/or heartworm prevention products (topical) provide a monthly deworming, which is especially helpful in minimizing environmental contamination. Oral medications to treat worms are also available and especially recommended for kittens and highly infected cats (followed up with a topical treatment for monthly protection).

 

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How did the Cat Become Domesticated?

Small wildcats live in Europe and Africa. The Egyptians started storing grain around 9,500 years ago, and this of course attracted rodents who fed on the grain. The small and beautiful African Wildcat, whose scientific name is Felis lybica, found easy hunting grounds at these storage bins. The local villagers became aware of the hunting prowess of the cats, and quickly became attracted to their beauty, so they slowly befriended the animals. Thus, began the domestication of the cat, Felis Catus, as we know him today. Our domestic cat is more likely descended from the African wildcat because the European wildcat is pretty much untamable, whereas Felis lybica to this day hangs around villages in Africa, and, when they are young, can be tamed.




Which is the Most Popular Cat Breed?

All domestic cats, no matter what breed, are from the same species, Felis catus. “The basic cat is a tabby,”5 says Roger Tabor. “Whatever a cat looks like, whether a Russian Blue or a Smoke Persian, it is genetically tabby.”6 The most popular cat is still the "moggie" or random bred cat, also referred to domestic shorthair (DSH). Tabor says, “The archetypal cat is the good old moggie tabby, be it brown, ginger, or elegant silver. Centuries of living rough, alongside man, have produced a strong, hardy, streetwise animal.” 7
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5, 6, 7 Roger Tabor. “Cats: The Rise of the Cat.” London: BBC Books, 1992.

 



How Many Cat Breeds are there?

A cat must have a traceable lineage going back several generations to be registered as a pedigreed cat. The term "purebred" is not used by breeders or the cat fancy in general, but is a popular term among the general public. There are a little more than 70 different and distinct cat breeds currently registered throughout the world. Some pedigree cats are natural breeds, while others are the result of special breeding.



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